At the foot of Mount Etna lies a fascinating place steeped in both myth and history. It is a place that remained closed off for too long and risked disappearing forever, yet today it has been reclaimed for everyone to enjoy. Locals call it the “Bosco di Aci” (Aci Forest), and it is one of Sicily’s oldest forests. Linked to the myth of Acis and Galatea, it is the last remnant of the vast woodland that once covered Sicily’s entire eastern coast—a forest that was gradually dismantled between the Roman era and the Middle Ages to provide timber for shipbuilding.
The story of an “ancient” forest
Recent botanical studies have somewhat changed the picture. It turns out the Bosco di Aci may not be quite as ancient as once thought. Or rather, while it certainly dates back centuries, it is not the same forest the Greeks and Romans saw; over time, eruptions, earthquakes, and climatic events (such as fires and floods) have altered and partially wiped out the original woodlands. However, the stretch of greenery we can admire today between the municipalities of Aci Sant’Antonio and Acireale dates back at least to the Middle Ages—so yes, we can certainly call it an “ancient forest.” For plant enthusiasts, it offers a fascinating area of study, while for everyone else, it provides a perfect spot for hiking, picnicking, and enjoying the outdoors just a stone’s throw from the city.
How to get to the Bosco di Aci?
Entrances to the Bosco di Aci are located in Santa Maria la Stella and Lavinaio, hamlets within the municipality of Aci Sant’Antonio. However, this vast expanse of trees and meadows extends as far as the Fiandaca area (in the municipality of Acireale). Make Acireale—the area’s largest town—your main reference point; it is a drive of just under fifteen minutes from Catania (and about forty minutes from Fontanarossa Airport). Once in Acireale, follow the signs for the Paesi Etnei (Etna towns) and Aci Sant’Antonio, turning off toward the small village of Santa Maria la Stella. Signage for the Bosco di Aci is clearly marked along the route.
What to see in the wood
The area lies on the slopes of Mount Etna, and the volcano can be admired in all its spectacular beauty right from the “Schools” entrance ( Sacerdote Messina Street) in Santa Maria la Stella. Here, a large area that was recently cleared has been replanted with young plants; as they are currently very small, they allow for an expansive view of the volcano.
The wood rises in a territory defined by ancient lava flows, fertile soil, and vegetation typical of Sicily’s hilly regions. Historically, this abundant vegetation played a vital role in the lives of local communities by providing natural resources and helping to conserve the soil. To this day, the area retains features of great scenic and natural interest. While walking through the woods, you can observe various plant species—including Mediterranean trees and shrubs—that thrive thanks to the unique combination of the Ionian coast’s mild climate and the characteristics of the volcanic soil. Certain species of tiny wild orchids can also be found here, though they are recognizable only to true experts.
The Bosco di Aci is not merely a green space; it is a place where nature, history, and culture converge. The landscape is also closely linked to the history of the many settlements that sprang up on Etna’s slopes and to the area’s agricultural traditions. Its preservation and enhancement are vital for safeguarding the area’s heritage and allowing new generations to discover and appreciate one of the distinctive landscapes of the Etna region. By developing it into a “suburban park,” the municipality of Aci Sant’Antonio has—among other things—gifted the community a vast green space just a stone’s throw from the town center!
Trails in the Bosco di Aci
There are three main trails in the Aci forest. While they lack official names, for the sake of convenience, we might call them: the tourist trail, the adventure trail, and the historical trail.
The first, accessible from Santa Maria la Stella, is an open route with little shade but well-maintained—and in some sections, paved—paths, allowing for leisurely strolls with an unobstructed view of Mount Etna. It is a great spot for both adults and children to enjoy on foot or by bicycle, and it is also ideal for picnics.
The “adventure trail” begins at the Lavinaio entrance and features uneven terrain, though it is shaded by tall, ancient trees; here, the walk takes you over lava rock, through shrubs and tall grass, and you will certainly feel the physical exertion in your legs.
Both the first and second trails converge near the Red Farm, where the “historical trail” begins. Plans are in place to establish a rural life museum here; the farmhouse itself stands as a testament to the old latifondo (large estate) culture and sharecropping systems that characterized the property when it was privately owned. All trails are marked with painted wooden signs provided by the local Scout troop.
A curious fact…
The Bosco di Aci forest also houses monitoring stations for the Catania Institute of Volcanology, which has installed sensors here to track Mount Etna’s tremors and, crucially, fault movements. The land on which the woods stand is crossed by a famous fault line that has shifted three times in the last forty years, causing significant earthquakes—and building collapses—on a couple of occasions. Thus, it is not merely a place of history, botany, and recreation, but also a blank “page” upon which INGV instruments record their data! (Photos by Grazia Musumeci)