Etna South: the surprise of Carpinteri Hut

We discovered the Carpinteri Hut (or Refuge) as a pleasant surprise. Perhaps because the trail leading to it from the Milìa route (Etna South) had never been properly marked, or perhaps it had been abandoned for some time… we certainly hadn’t noticed it, before. Yet, going from the Filiciusa-Milìa gate to San Giovanni Gualberto, passing through the botanical garden in the woods, it’s hard to miss the signs, always clearly visible on the straight path. A trail “re-style” likely allowed the Forest Department to better highlight this route… and we explored it.

A road in the woods

The Milìa route is one of the easiest on the southern slope of Etna. It starts from the road that leads from Piano Vetore to Ragalna and is accessed from the Filiciusa-Milìa gate, taking the Pista Altomontana trail that reaches the scenic Galvarina refuge after about two full hours of walking. But before reaching Galvarina, the most fascinating stop is San Giovanni Gualberto, a forest ranger barracks announced by a lovely open-air chapel. The wide, straight (almost always flat) trail runs alongside the Nuova Gussonea botanical garden project. Right next to it, an elegant carved wooden sign indicating Rifugio Carpinteri has recently emerged. The distance is minimal… 500 meters; you can easily get there on foot along a grassy path through the woods.

The surprise of a panoramic refuge

We ventured to Carpinteri Hut during the spectacular eruption of August 2025. It was a particularly clear evening, and countless people were seeking ideal vantage points to photograph the lava. A huge procession of hikers was heading to Galvarina, the location closest to the lava streams. This predicted a large crowd there, so nothing particularly magical… after all!

We decided to head back and look for other scenic spots in the valley, but first we thought it best to take this trail to Carpinteri. Just out of curiosity, to see how it was laid out and how long it would take us to get there.

Instead, we were greatly surprised when ten minutes later the trail suddenly emerged from the thick forest and opened up onto a spectacular view of the summit craters and eruption! The Carpinteri Hut consists of a large, well-appointed wood and stone hut – but unfortunately locked (to prevent vandalism by the usual idiots!). Next to the hut, however, the lovely lava-rock bivouac is open and accessible. Inside, there are just a few pots and pans, a fireplace, a table, and a chair. And the drawings and signatures of visitors.

Why go to Carpinteri Hut?

Why choose Carpinteri Hut instead of San Giovanni Gualberto or Galvarina? Because:

it’s close to the parking lots,
accessible on foot even for children or the elderly,
because it offers areas equipped for picnics, cooking, running and playing safely,
and because of the view… which is truly spectacular.

In spring, the surrounding meadows are in bloom, and in summer, when the tall grass is cut, a charming stone watering hole emerges. In early autumn, when the grass grows back, everything is covered in a soft blanket of golden threads that create a thousand-colored waves in the wind! And if an eruption occurs on the south side, the view from Rifugio Carpinteri is breathtaking!