There are places in Sicily where all tourists want to go. Famous, beautiful locations, with dreamy sea views or spectacular lava landscapes. Who wouldn’t pay a fortune for a vacation in Aci Trezza or at Rifugio Sapienza on Mount Etna? Because here lies the magic, at the foot of the great volcano, which, however, from these very places…can’t be seen!
Hidden Etna
But how is it possible that a 3,400 meters high volcano, dominating the Ionian Sea, which can be seen even from Malta with the naked eye… plays hide-and-seek in its own place? Are there really areas at the foot of Etna from which you won’t see Etna? Indeed, that’s exactly how it is.
Given its geological formation, which has been turbulent over the centuries, Etna has built a great mass on ancient landslides, craters, and exposed faults, creating a geographical map rich in hills and valleys. And while the summit of Etna can be admired in its entirety from Zafferana Etnea and Milo, from the road connecting these two towns (in the Caselle neighbourhood) the volcano disappears!
There are several corners of the Etna area like this, from which it hides, spitefully! Should we avoid them? Of course not, because they are beautiful. But knowing which ones they are helps when making your reservation.
Rifugio Sapienza: one step away from the dream
Rifugio Sapienza is a large accommodation facility located near the summit craters of Etna. It is set at 1,910 meters asl, where the cable cars depart to reach the ski slopes and the summit of the volcano… a summit that, however, cannot be seen from the refuge. That’s due to the Montagnola, a sharp relief that rises to 2,600 meters and, with its bulk, blocks the panoramic view of the eruptions.
So, will it make sense to book at Sapienza? Sure, it makes sense indeed. You may not see the craters from your window, but you can reach them in no time by cable car or shuttle. This is the best place to ascend, accompanied by a guide, to watch Etna’s “fireworks” displays. There is no view, perhaps, but it is right there, literally “just around the corner”!
Aci Trezza: romantic village
The village celebrated in Verga’s novel, “I Malavoglia,” Aci Trezza—a hamlet in the municipality of Aci Castello—still retains the romantic and authentic atmosphere of the ancient days. At the port, there are still fishermen with the faces of Padron Ntoni, and the local girls have dark, luminous eyes like those of little Lia. And the sea… with the lava stacks in the background, along with the small island of Lachea… completes the picture. But Etna can’t be seen from Aci Trezza. That’s because of the Vampolieri clay hill, which hides the landscape.
So, will your holiday in Aci Trezza offer something “less”? No. Because all you need to do is rent a boat from one of the many agencies offering this service, and you’ll be just off the shore. A short distance from the pier, just beyond the sea stacks, the tip of the volcano will finally appear, emerging from the hill. So, a guaranteed view, with the option of even taking a dip!
Santa Maria la Scala: wild nature
A small seaside hamlet of the baroque town Acireale, Santa Maria la Scala with its many-colored houses and seafood restaurants, is a tourist destination for a lucky few. It looks like a slice of the “Cinque Terre” transplanted to Sicily, dominated by a lava promontory covered in wild nature. The beaches are pebbly, but the scents of the sea here are authentic. Unfortunately, Mount Etna cannot be seen, because the promontory and the overlying buildings of Acireale’s center completely obscure it.
However, we highly recommend a vacation in Santa Maria la Scala. Peaceful surroundings, beautiful sea, excellent seafood, delicious granitas, hiking opportunities along the Chiazzette trail, and much more. And if you really want to admire Mount Etna, take the small bus that leaves every hour to and from Acireale, and you’ll see the volcano from every corner of the historic old town. Even better, visit the bell tower of the local cathedral: a reasonable price (€2.50, subject to change), and you shall admire Etna will appearing before you in all its splendor. (PHOTOS BY G. MUSUMECI)