In modern-day Sicily, age-old traditions blend almost seamlessly with new customs imported from abroad. This is why, between October 31st and November 2nd, the pumpkins and ghosts of Halloween merge with the prayers and religious celebrations of All Saints’ Day – creating a unique fusion. It offers yet another reason to celebrate and enjoy distinctive experiences during these two nights, which have always held a touch of magic! Now, close your eyes and imagine experiencing both… on Mount Etna!
Halloween on Mount Etna
Halloween is not, in fact, part of traditional Sicilian culture. While some inland villages once held a similar custom rooted in ancient Greek rites, where children would go door-to-door asking for treats for the deceased, the holiday itself has no deep-seated roots on the island. Today, it is celebrated due to the “media bombardment” from the United States, and it has gained significant traction, especially among the younger generation.
Adults have adapted to this new tradition in their own way. Of course, they don’t go from house to house asking for candy; instead, they organize costume parties, “horror-themed” excursions, and similar events.
In the Etna region, Halloween is celebrated through nighttime explorations of Catania (offered by various tour operators and guides) following itineraries such as “The Hypogea” (underground chambers) or “Mysterious Catania”. Alternatively, some mountain refuges on Mount Etna host gatherings on the night of October 31st, featuring good food, drinks, and music under the stars. Among these, the most popular events are those organized at “Clan dei Ragazzi” and “Rifugio Brunek” (on the northern side of Mount Etna). If you prefer to head out into nature, the “spookiest” excursions are the nighttime treks through the birch forests – where the trees, with their white “eyes”, seem to stare at you in the darkness!
Traditions and places of the “Day of the Dead Souls”
In Sicily, November 1st and 2nd have always been tied to the “cult of the Dead Souls.” While these days commemorate All Saints’ Day (November 1st) and All Souls’ Day (November 2nd) – traditionally observed through religious services, prayers, and the occasional traditional treat to keep children happy – they have recently evolved into a “trilogy” that now encompasses Halloween as well.
Modern traditions surrounding All Saints’ Day and the “Day of the Dead” are still observed in churches. However, a new addition
has emerged on the night of October 31st: the All Saints’ Vigil. Many young Sicilians gather in churches to celebrate an “anti-Halloween” night, countering witches and monsters with Christian hymns and songs. In some parishes, children even attend Mass in costume – though not masked as skeletons, but rather as saints (little Saint Peters, Saint Sebastians, Saint Theresas, or Saint Catherines).
For those with a less religious inclination, a popular way to mark the “Day of the Dead” – weather permitting – is to hike through the more “macabre” corners of Mount Etna. One such spot is the “Monte dei Morti” (Mountain of the Dead), a lava formation where the coiled, solidified lava flows look eerily like a pile of burned corpses! Getting to Monte dei Morti is not easy. Always go with a local guide… who might even offer you, upon arrival, some excellent traditional Sicilian sweets (Nucatole, Rame, Rame di Napoli…).
The beauty of Mount Etna in November
In November – being the day a holiday or not – Mount Etna takes on a unique charm, distinct from its character during other seasons. The great Sicilian volcano, majestic and imposing, dons the colors of autumn and seems to slow its pace, enveloped in a quiet, evocative atmosphere.
As you ascend the slopes of Etna, you encounter forests that shift in color at this time of year. The leaves take on shades of red, yellow, and gold, creating a striking contrast against the dark volcanic soil. The trail, carpeted with dry leaves, leads through a landscape that feels as though it belongs to another dimension. The air is crisp and carries the scent of the woods, while the wind accompanies your journey with a gentle, whispering sound. In November, the summit of Etna may also already be dusted with snow. The white of the snow-covered slopes contrasts with the black lava and the warm hues of the vegetation lower down—a spectacle that, within just a few kilometers, reveals the extraordinary diversity of the Sicilian landscape. When the clouds clear, the mountain offers sweeping, expansive views: the sea, the coastal towns, and the countryside stretch out into the distance, while the sky seems to grow even more vast.
Sunsets on Etna are also particularly enchanting at this time of year. The sunlight bathes the volcano in shades of orange and pink, transforming the rocks and craters into almost surreal forms. For a few fleeting moments, the landscape seems to stand still, evoking a profound sense of peace and wonder.
How do you get to Mount Etna?
Mount Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe and one of the island’s premier natural attractions. There are several ways to reach it, depending on your starting point and the area you wish to visit.
The most well-known route begins in Catania, starting from its international airport. From there, you can take a bus or a taxi—with a dedicated driver—towards Nicolosi, a town located on the slopes of the volcano. From Nicolosi, the road continues up to Rifugio Sapienza, situated at an altitude of approximately 1,900 meters. This serves as one of the primary access points to Mount Etna and offers an expansive view of the coastline and the surrounding landscape. Another access point is located on the north-eastern side, via Zafferana Etnea or Linguaglossa; both towns also serve as starting points for various routes and excursions.
Before setting off, it is advisable to check the conditions of the volcano and choose a route suited to your own abilities. Reaching Mount Etna is a fascinating experience, offering the chance to observe one of Sicily’s most spectacular landscapes up close.