The Barbagallo craters are there, and they are as “ugly” as a scar that no one would ever want to show! Yet they too express, with their mere existence, the powerful beauty of an incredible and fascinating volcano like Mount Etna. Looking at the mountain’s profile from the eastern flank, these two “bumps” rise up almost to mar the harmonious shape of the summit… but if you find yourself in their presence, up there at 3,000 meters asl , you will fall in love!
How the Barbagallo Craters formed
The Barbagallo craters are one of the many phenomena that occurred during the great eruption of 2002. A gigantic event, lasting three months (from October 2002 to January 2003), which resulted from the fracturing of a large portion of the volcano’s body. Explosions and lava flows were both to the north and the south of the summit craters, and the latters did not stand idly by.
During that eruption, the lava destroyed the ski resorts and accommodations of Piano Provenzana, and another flow threatened the Sapienza area. At the summit of Etna, the ground split between Torre del Filosofo and Montagnola, and two eruptive cones began spewing fire. After the eruption, these “twin cones” (now extinct) were named after a family of historic volcano guides of the past: the Barbagallos.
Guides and Heroes
Alfio Barbagallo, the eldest, was born in 1801 and, together with his son Giuseppe, was one of the most important reference points for hikers on Etna. These were times before today’s sophisticated technologies existed, no satellites no drones. Eruptions could only be predicted by those few brave, experienced men who knew the volcano as “one of the family.”
Vincenzo Barbagallo, the last descendant, was born in 1909 and worked not only as a guide but also as the observatory’s custodian. He later became manager of the Refuge Sapienza and a friend of the great volcanologist Dr. Haroun Tazieff. He is credited with the first true documentaries on Etna and its activity, recorded with an amateur camera.
Like all guides, the Barbagallos were true heroes of the mountain. It is said that when the lava destroyed the observatory in 1971, Vincenzo stayed to film the event, braving the fiery boulders as he watched, heartbroken, that beloved structure collapse. After all, what could you expect from a man who, after suffering a broken collarbone from a volcanic sliver, continued for years to show off that physical scar, calling it “the kiss of Etna”?
Visiting the Barbagallo Craters
The hike to the Barbagallo craters consists in a 3 km (starting from the Montagnola cable car arrival point) or 8 km (starting from the Sapienza) walk over rugged lava terrain, climbing a strenuous and challenging altitude. Given its proximity to the summit craters, this is always a dangerous area. Due to the difficulty of the route, the proximity to active vents, and sudden weather changes, it is strongly recommended that you undertake this hike with an experienced guide. If you go alone, make sure you have all the professional mountaineering equipment—as well as the expertise—and always inform someone of your intentions and route.
This hike is definitely not recommended unless you’re in excellent physical shape and have undergone consistent, specific training.
For the less energetic, the Barbagallo craters can also be reached by motorized vehicles provided by the Etna cable car society. Along the route, you can admire the grandeur of these cones from a comfortable seat and, once there, even climb one of them, if you wish.
Spectacular View
From the top of the Barbagallo craters, you can enjoy a spectacular view. Not only the Catania coast and the Sicilian hinterland, but also the panorama of the Montagnola peak and the group of summit craters located about 4 km away. On sunny days with clear visibility, you can see as far as Malta and the Aeolian Islands! (PHOTO G. MUSUMECI)