<< The word “riuturi” comes from “rivolture, overturning” and indicates the moment when the climate suddenly changes, going from hot to cold, from sun to downpours, from summer to winter. Specifically, the Riuturi can be identified more with the sound of distant thunder than with that of the wind >> . This text explains one of the many late summer phenomena that occur on the Sicilian coast, when sea and air seem to mix in the dance that precedes autumn. And if this dance also encounters a capricious and nasty volcano, unexpected storms can unleash. Like all important mountains, Etna also has a climate that changes without warning, and if you find yourself at high altitude – especially along the paths that cut through the lava deserts – it can become a serious problem.
Understanding Riuturi
Riuturi are short-lived storms, typical of late August and early September in Sicily, especially on the eastern slope of Mount Etna. These brief storms once rose from the sea and formed in the early afternoon, releasing lightning and rain for an hour or two before giving way to the sun again.
With the climatic changes of recent years, riuturi have also changed. Today, they don’t always rise from the sea; sometimes they form directly on the mountainside or in the “belly” (Valle del Bove) of Etna, and they are particularly violent, resulting in significant lightning strikes. You must always be prepared for the possibility of finding yourself on the volcano when these storms are approaching. Let’s see how to do so without taking too many risks.
How to deal with thunderstorms? With prevention
Thunderstorms—even on a unique mountain like a volcano—can develop rapidly, bringing with them lightning, heavy rain, hail, strong winds, and a sudden drop in temperature. For this reason, those who hike or engage in other mountain activities must know some basic rules to prevent risks and behave correctly in the event of a thunderstorm. And the first rule of course is: prevention.
Before setting out to explore Etna, it’s important to carefully check the weather forecast and learn about the conditions for your chosen route. Use regional or local apps, if possible, or consult with Catania meteorologists, who are always highly reliable and many have highly followed social media pages (search for Alfredo Ragonese or Giuseppe Pittera, for example). If thunderstorms are forecast, especially in the middle or afternoon hours, it’s best to postpone the excursion or organize your route so you can return early.
When to go in order to avoid thunderstorms?
On Mount Etna, the weather can change much more quickly than on the plains, so it’s always advisable to set off in the morning and not underestimate the appearance of dark clouds or the development of large vertical clouds.
During a hike, it’s essential to constantly observe the sky. Distant thunder, frequent flashes of lightning, a sudden increase in wind, and a darkening sky are signs that require caution. Do not wait until the thunderstorm is overhead: as soon as you sense a concrete risk, you should stop climbing and head for a safer area.
If the hike is nearby, or if you’re accompanied by expert guides, you could also set off as soon as the thunderstorm passes, in the late afternoon or evening, since the sun sets very late.
Look for a shelter and avoid exposed places
When a thunderstorm is approaching, avoid the summit, ridges, and open spaces, as they are more exposed to lightning. It’s also a good idea to stay away from isolated trees, poles, summit crosses, fences, and other metal objects.
Etna is full of “sciare” – that is, rivers of ancient, cold lava, resulting in enormous clusters of boulders and rock formations – that can also create caves, tunnels, or simple shelters. Even if you find yourself in the vast and exposed Valle del Bove, immediately keep an eye out for one or two places to run to in case of a storm: even crouching under a lava rock can save your life.
If you can’t quickly reach a safe shelter, you better stay away from each other when in a group and reduce contact with metal objects, such as trekking poles or nonessential equipment. Remember to always turn off cell phones during a lightning storm, as these devices can attract dangerous electrical charges.
The importance of equipment
Equipment is also important. A backpack should contain waterproof, warm clothing, as temperatures can drop rapidly during a thunderstorm. A rain jacket, a backpack protector, and a small supply of water and food can be very useful for extended waits.
In conclusion, protecting yourself from mountain storms means above all careful planning, recognizing the warning signs, and avoiding risky behavior. Mountains, so as volcanoes too, can offer extraordinary experiences, but require respect and caution. Knowing how to forgo the summit or change plans when the weather worsens is often the most responsible and safe decision.
The magic of Etna after the rain
Once the storm has passed, you can enjoy the beauty of Mount Etna after the rain. All around, a strong smell of wet earth mingles with the hot vapors emanating from the rocks. The colors take on new, brighter hues, and many animals may emerge from their burrows and cross your path. Admire the clouds, both those from the passing storm and the eternal ones, atop the summit craters: the colors and shapes are definitely worth photographing. If you look closely at the great body of Etna, you might also notice low, trailing clouds that trace very precise paths: these are the vapors emanating from the still-hot lava of recent eruptions. Admiring them immediately after a thunderstorm, you’ll see the exact path of some more recent lava flows, thus imagining the landscape as if it were still fiery.
Etna is a planet unto itself, a lively and vibrant spectacle of nature even during a thunderstorm. If you approach it wisely and without overdoing it, you can be rewarded with intense experiences and a beauty unlike any other in the world. (PHOTOS BY G MUSUMECI)