Passopisciaro (fishmonger’s pass) is a funny name. And that’s the name of one of the seven hamlets in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slope of Mount Etna, the last frontier of the district of Catania before entering Messina area. Why do we focus on this village, instead of exploring more touristy and famous areas? Because Passopisciaro also fits – proudly! – into a tourism industry. And it does so… with wine!

One step at a time…

Let’s take it one step at a time: what is a village with a name that recalls fish doing on a mountaintop and connected to wine? It seems delirious, but it’s just a series of fantastic coincidences that make this place even more fascinating.

First of all, the name: Passopisciaro appears on Etna maps around the 19th century and indicated an area called “passu d’u pisciaru” (fishmonger’s pass). But here we are 653 meters above sea level! What is a fishmonger doing so far from the sea? According to legend, that poor vendor was coming up …from the coast, maybe, or from the nearby Alcantara river… to sell his fish at the Randazzo market when, in the thick woods that once filled this area, he was attacked, robbed, and killed by a notorious bandit: Ciccio Zummu. From that day on, the place was fearfully referred to as “where the fishmonger was killed” , a name that stuck forever.

The fishmonger or the ancient lava?

Another theory, however, suggests that the land here is full of ancient lava flows (the Sciàre), so “passing through the Sciàre” became Passo pe’ Sciare and then Passopisciaro. The road that still bisects the village today was an ancient Via Regia, that is an important route connecting the most famous cities of eastern Sicily. Opening a passage through the ancient lavas was certainly a crucial step to allow for the road, so it’s no surprise that the name is linked to that word. Locals, however, prefer to pay homage to the mysterious fishmonger and continue to think of him and his “martyrdom” on this road!

Passopisciaro and wine

Surrounded by fertile land, fields and vineyards, Passopisciaro has lived off the grape harvest for many centuries. The 20th century saw a (sad!) decline in agriculture and thus the decline of many villages on this side of Etna.

But with the resurgence of tourism in the 2000s and, above all, the rediscovery of more modern and organic agriculture, viticulture has once again become an important economic driver in Sicily. And Etna wines have now become a prestigious brand worldwide. The area between Linguaglossa, Castiglione, and Randazzo is increasingly flourishing with vineyards and wineries, and some wines—like Solicchiata, for example—are named after the villages that produce them.

Passopisciaro is part of the Solicchiata wine chain, and its vineyards annually produce excellent bottles of red and white wines – including some delicious sparkling wines. Among the most famous wineries here are Passopisciaro SRL, Palmento Costanzo, Cantine Calcagno, and Cantine Wiegner. That is why, today, the spirit of the mysterious fishmonger “lost” on the volcano is synonymous with exquisite wines and the joy of living. (PHOTOS BY G. MUSUMECI)