The northern flank of Mount Etna is dotted with ancient medieval villages that have now transformed into delightful rural towns, often producing excellent wines. The heart of this slope is the town of Linguaglossa, which rivals Randazzo in beauty and history. But we want to take you on a discovery of two small gems not far from these major landmarks. Overlooking the Alcantara Valley, they have been looking at eache other – from one shore to the other – for centuries… Castiglione di Sicilia and Malvagna.
The Lion Castle
Castiglione owes its name to the castle that still dominates its center and its views. It was once called “Castel del Leone” (Lion Castle) later shortened to Castiglione (“di Sicilia” to distinguish it from other Italian towns with the same name). Although it has a millennia-old history dating back to the ancient Greeks, its existence appears to have only begun in the 11th century. After the expulsion of the Arabs, the ancient military fort was transformed into a stately castle and maintained so well that, in 1233, Frederick II of Swabia chose it as his summer residence. Already called the “animosa” (meaning “courageous city”) during that period, Castiglione has always had a heroic spirit. And in 1943, it paid with its people’s blood for the opposition to Nazi German troops, who, fleeing the clash with the Allies, sought refuge here.
Castiglione’s beauty lies in the view of Mount Etna, which you can enjoy from various corners of the town, particularly from the castle’s courtyard atop the hill. The precious, baroque churches are another source of pride: the most important is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, the most beautiful is Sant’Antonio Abate, and the most mysterious is the Basilica of the Madonna della Catena. But the most interesting monuments are located outside the village: the Cannizzu Tower, the ruins of Castelluccio, and the two Byzantine churches of San Nicola (downstream, on the banks of the Alcantara) and Santa Domenica.
The latter is called “the Cuba”—perhaps due to its cube shape—and is built entirely of lava stone. Used for years as a stable, it was only recently restored and now houses a small museum. Not far from the Cuba, you can admire the course of the Alcantara River just before it begins its descent toward the deep and more famous gorges.
The fiefdom where the mallow grows
Malvagna appears to owe its name to the “malva” (mallow) plants that have always grown in its territory. Originally a simple hunting reserve of the Lanza feudal lords, it became a proper village in the 17th century when, due to the malaria that plagued the valley, many fled to the hills and remained there forever.
Today, it has just 580 inhabitants, but offers clean air and a stunning view of Mount Etna and its neighbour, Castiglione. Malvagna has very few monuments: a church, the ruins of an ancient monastery, and a Byzantine “cuba” known as Trichora. Nature lovers will appreciate the Malabotta Reserve not far from the village—beautiful protected forests located above 1,000 meters. The reserve extends to the Nebrodi Mountains and the Argimusco plateau, with its time-worn monoliths.
Getting to Castiglione and Malvagna
Castiglione and Malvagna can be reached via the A18 motorway, exiting at Fiumefreddo di Sicilia or Giardini Naxos. Continue on State Road 185 and finally onto the SP7, a road that also connects Castiglione and Malvagna.
The nearest airport is Catania Fontanarossa Airport (CTA).
PHOTOS BY GIUSEPPE JOSE’ RUSSOTTI and G. MUSUMECI